Playa Santispac, Dec. 6, 7 & 8
We would have to spend these next 3 days in the Bay of Conception while we waited for the Northerlies in the Sea of Cortez to abate and provide a window for us to go further south. We needed ice and water, so the first thing Chris did was row ashore and get some ice from Lupe’s Restaurant. They don’t normally sell ice, but they sold two of their own personal bags from an old chest freezer. Apparently they kept more than ice in the freezer because by the time Chris got the bags to the boat, they were smelling very fishy.
Chris left the bags, while he went back ashore looking for water. The fishy smell was only on the outside of the bags, so Alice carefully re-packed the ice. Needless to say we didn’t use THAT ice in any drinks. Chris just missed the water man, so we had to be very careful with our water.
Chris left the bags, while he went back ashore looking for water. The fishy smell was only on the outside of the bags, so Alice carefully re-packed the ice. Needless to say we didn’t use THAT ice in any drinks. Chris just missed the water man, so we had to be very careful with our water.
When we are on the boat, Chris is usually aware of the movement of the boat and the shift of the winds, even while at anchor. It is fairly routine for him to get up several times during the night when there is a shift in wind or wave pattern to check our anchors. Though this prevents uninterrupted sleep, there is an advantage. Each night he is treated to a changing night sky.
Around 4:00 in the morning of Dec. 7, the crescent moon had just risen, and Venus appeared immediately below the crescent shining brightly. It was a unique and beautiful site. As a consequence, that morning at around 9:00 o’clock the moon was faintly visible in the full daylight. Because the location of Venus in relation to the moon was known, Venus was visible in bright daylight, something he had never seen before. These night anchor checks in the clear desert air allow him to see brilliant stars and planets, the moon in rare glory and many shooting stars.
Around 4:00 in the morning of Dec. 7, the crescent moon had just risen, and Venus appeared immediately below the crescent shining brightly. It was a unique and beautiful site. As a consequence, that morning at around 9:00 o’clock the moon was faintly visible in the full daylight. Because the location of Venus in relation to the moon was known, Venus was visible in bright daylight, something he had never seen before. These night anchor checks in the clear desert air allow him to see brilliant stars and planets, the moon in rare glory and many shooting stars.
Conception Bay is about 25 miles in length and 4 – 5 miles wide oriented northwest and southeast. Most of the good anchorages are on the northwestern side in Bahia Coyote. Santispac is the northern most anchorage providing the best protection from northerly winds. In addition there are four nice bay further south within 5 miles, and some have hot springs.
Conception Bay is about 25 miles in length and 4 – 5 miles wide oriented northwest and southeast. Most of the good anchorages are on the northwestern side in Bahia Coyote. Santispac is the northern most anchorage providing the best protection from northerly winds. In addition there are four nice bay further south within 5 miles, and some have hot springs.
The morning of the 7th, the winds were down to 5 knots, (though they were expected to increase to 20 knots from the north in the afternoon). We decided to buoy the anchor and take a tour of the rest of Bahia Coyote. We had a friend on a 26’ S2 sailboat who had said he would be in the bay, and we went looking for him and exploring the rest of the coves. We also were in search of water. It turns out we just missed the water truck that delivers to the many small palapas and summer homes along the beaches. . We couldn’t find out friend and when we got to a hot spring location, the wind was picking up and we thought it best to return to our anchorage. We enjoyed the sail back in the increasing winds to the buoy, safely picked up our anchor and settled in for the night.
On the morning the 8th, knowing there was a weather window beginning the next day, Chris decided he had to top off the fuel tanks for the next jump. The only place to get fuel was in Mulegé, which required hitch-hiking with a 6 gallon fuel tank into Mulegé. Thinking it best to go alone, he took the dinghy ashore, he saw the water truck and came back to the boat to get our containers. After returning the fresh water to the boat, he left again for Mulegé, 8 miles north.
On the way to shore, Chris went in search of updated weather. He stopped and talked with Dorothy and Bill on Gray Wolf, a 42’trawler, but their side band radio was down. He then stopped at Flight, a center cockpit Hunter Passage and found out there was going to be a couple of more days of settled weather. He also found out that Dewey, the owner, had had a 40’ Catalina in Florida and the Caribbean and he much preferred sailing in the Sea of Cortez and the Pacific coast of Mexico. This was not the first time Chris had heard that comment. Dewey said the Caribbean was crowded, more expensive and the people weren’t as friendly.
Chris picked up a ride within 5 minutes with a Canadian farmer from Alberta. He had just had 2 accidents in a row in the last two days with his brand new truck. He said he just wanted to warn Chris that his luck wasn’t so good. Chris was dropped off after crossing the palm-lined Mulegé River in the center of town. He went to TelCel and recharged the minutes and data on the phone and then walked to the Pemex station in town. It was shut down. He asked around and found out they had been closed by the weights and measures bureau for dispensing “Mulegé” liters…800 milliliters while the pump showed 1000 mil. (a liter).
On the morning the 8th, knowing there was a weather window beginning the next day, Chris decided he had to top off the fuel tanks for the next jump. The only place to get fuel was in Mulegé, which required hitch-hiking with a 6 gallon fuel tank into Mulegé. Thinking it best to go alone, he took the dinghy ashore, he saw the water truck and came back to the boat to get our containers. After returning the fresh water to the boat, he left again for Mulegé, 8 miles north.
On the way to shore, Chris went in search of updated weather. He stopped and talked with Dorothy and Bill on Gray Wolf, a 42’trawler, but their side band radio was down. He then stopped at Flight, a center cockpit Hunter Passage and found out there was going to be a couple of more days of settled weather. He also found out that Dewey, the owner, had had a 40’ Catalina in Florida and the Caribbean and he much preferred sailing in the Sea of Cortez and the Pacific coast of Mexico. This was not the first time Chris had heard that comment. Dewey said the Caribbean was crowded, more expensive and the people weren’t as friendly.
Chris picked up a ride within 5 minutes with a Canadian farmer from Alberta. He had just had 2 accidents in a row in the last two days with his brand new truck. He said he just wanted to warn Chris that his luck wasn’t so good. Chris was dropped off after crossing the palm-lined Mulegé River in the center of town. He went to TelCel and recharged the minutes and data on the phone and then walked to the Pemex station in town. It was shut down. He asked around and found out they had been closed by the weights and measures bureau for dispensing “Mulegé” liters…800 milliliters while the pump showed 1000 mil. (a liter).
Chris then went to a small park with a nativity scene to sit down and figure out what his next move was. There was an elementary school across from the park and the kids were out at recess. Kids are the same the world over. Goofy, funny, and full of energy. He then walked about a mile outside of town to the main road, and soon got a ride from a Mexican family. The dad, Alberto, the son, Reynaldo, and mom Lucey, were on their way to get gas, also. Alberto is a fisherman who dives for shellfish, hunts fish with a spear gun, and also uses nets. As they were approaching the other Pemex station, the fisherman’s car stalled and ran out of gas as it coasted to the pump.
Chris filled up our six gallon tank, ($24), discovered the family only had $2 to put in their tank, so had the attendant put in another $12. The family was very delighted with the gift of gas and Chris was happy he could help. A short time later they dropped Chris off at Playa Santispac. The whole trip there and back only took 2 hours.
With the afternoon to kill, we decided to take the short trip over to the hot spring at the south end of Coyote. We were accompanied by a school of dolphins. The wind was a nice 12 knots as we started down, but as we approached the northerly facing beach where the hot spring was, the fetch and the increasing winds conspired to make it unadvisable to anchor and go ashore. Maybe we can catch them on the return journey.
Chris filled up our six gallon tank, ($24), discovered the family only had $2 to put in their tank, so had the attendant put in another $12. The family was very delighted with the gift of gas and Chris was happy he could help. A short time later they dropped Chris off at Playa Santispac. The whole trip there and back only took 2 hours.
With the afternoon to kill, we decided to take the short trip over to the hot spring at the south end of Coyote. We were accompanied by a school of dolphins. The wind was a nice 12 knots as we started down, but as we approached the northerly facing beach where the hot spring was, the fetch and the increasing winds conspired to make it unadvisable to anchor and go ashore. Maybe we can catch them on the return journey.
That night we prepped for the long trip south to Punta Pulpito, 45 miles to the south.